11 Comments
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Travis Lacour's avatar

Thanks for allowing Ray to cook - reminds me of listening to my pops talk about his experiences growing up in that same era. The part about soldiering being a mechanism for folks to access the middle class, and not some sort of jingoistic gesture, can’t be overstated. And ironically, the one M65-style jacket I own is not from BR, but from Gap itself (yes, I’ve worn it with business casual….)

KAY GILBERT's avatar

Your Playboy cartoon reminded me: In the '80s, I volunteered to run the coat check at a fundraiser for a performance space. The crowd was mostly gay men, and they mostly wore leather bomber jackets that were too heavy for the wire hangers, causing them to collapse unless I used two for each jacket. But there were SO many bomber jackets that I ran out of hangers, and had to stack them. Some people lost their claim tickets, and couldn't tell their jacket from all the others.

Shady Maples's avatar

One of the most interesting things about this series is listening to someone outside the military-outdoor-industrial complex describe it like an anthropologist, or Jane Goodall watching chimpanzees. I'm glad that you interviewed an experienced infanteer in this episode, Ray gave some no-bullshit answers to tough questions. History rhymes, now it's Global War on Terror aesthetics bleeding on to civie-street. Buddy's obsession with Vietnam SOF is common. Elite units set the trends in the military, whatever SOF wore yesterday is what big army will get tomorrow. Blousing trousers into 10" spit-polished jump boots was the "trad" look when I got in, but that started with WWII paratroopers. Now it's Oakleys, beards, Crye Precision, Arc'teryx LEAF, and tactical sneakers. Cool guys do something new because it works for them, trend catches, now big box stores sell jackets with shoulder pockets and velcro. So it goes. Great podcast, thanks to you and your team for putting all the work in.

Julie Eilber's avatar

I remember going to one of the original Banana Republics in the Village in the 80s. There was a big fake tree in the middle and the soundtrack was jungle birds and monkeys or something like that. Part of the appeal of BR then was finding garments made of natural fibers after sweating it out in polyester through the 70s.

Ayaka T's avatar

I could be wrong, but that Snoopy Vietnam vest looks very familiar. I believe it’s a handmade piece from a shop in Hannam, Seoul called Masterpiece. They’re known for using deadstock and military fabrics, often stitching Snoopy alongside different locations. I’ve also seen Japan and Korea versions of this design. You can find the pieces on his Instagram @masterpiece_hannam.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DIVyYu0p4wS/?igsh=MWN0amF1MXloNGdvcA==

https://www.instagram.com/p/DFKTstlpEjA/?igsh=MXBzNGV5ZXdiZnZnZA==

Nacho's avatar

Commander Salamander! 🦎 I’m pretty sure I still have some buttons in a box in storage.

américa's avatar

Interesting to hear how the anti-war movement twisting the narrative behind the field jacket just sped its course into retail consumerism. (I ended up buying my first one after listening to this episode! + visited my first military store in Austin, TX http://quonsethut.us)

Jenn K's avatar

Lol, we had that massive can opener in our home as a kid!

And when I was in high school my aunt gave me a polish army field jacket that I wore all the time as a coat. Now I know where she must have acquired it and why she had such a thing in her closet. It was the early 90s when I wore the jacket so I changed out the buttons with ones I made out of FIMO.

Mouse's avatar

Not gonna lie, looking at those banana republic stores with all the dead animals and glamourised hunting and colonial vibes makes me sad, also as a non-American the whole “we called it banana republic haha we weren’t politically correct back then haha” didn’t do anything to alleviate this…

Loved the episode though, as always great reporting, insight and storytelling!

Brooke H's avatar

Why did this episode make me want a field jacket?

Design Clinic's avatar

So, Banana Republic interiors were full of adventure and exotic plants and animals! Sort of an African themed Biba on a smaller footprint. It’s of a time when retail design was experimental and engaging and the public was up for it. Hard to imagine a mainstream clothing brand today taking that level of immersion to their retail spaces.